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Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 April 2023

Elif Yılmaz, Ziynet Öndoğan and Arzu Şen Kılıç

This study aims to develop a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules that supports the breasts and provides an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28 days period.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to develop a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules that supports the breasts and provides an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28 days period.

Design/methodology/approach

A fitting process was carried out on provided seamless sports bras to determine the criteria that have to be improved considering the desired properties. The new sports bras were produced after the pattern design was developed; cosmetic microcapsules were applied to some of the bras and some were used as a control group to compare the real cosmetic effects. Female subjects tried the newly developed sports bras in a 28-day wear trial. Measurements were taken at certain periods during the wear trials, and the obtained data were analyzed statistically.

Findings

The findings of this study determined that the product provides a decrease in breast girth and increases skin moisture and nipple height after 28 days of regular use due to the effect of cosmetic ingredients released from microcapsules. A great majority of subjects found the breast lifting and supporting property of the sports bra successful and were satisfied with the new shape of the subjects' breasts.

Originality/value

Fitting studies were carried out directly on the female body, and the designed and developed encapsulating type sports bra has been transformed into a cosmetic textile product that gains also cosmetic properties. The cosmetic effects of the bra were investigated with wear trials. On the other hand, the nipple height measure term was defined for the first time and added to the literature within the scope of the study.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2001

Ziynet Aktuglu

Preparing a collection is a costly process when compared with mass production. Although it is a short‐run process, there are high unit costs due to the need for ordering knitted…

Abstract

Preparing a collection is a costly process when compared with mass production. Although it is a short‐run process, there are high unit costs due to the need for ordering knitted or woven material, and making necessary preparations for print and stitch patterns. All of these factors increase the cost of collection samples. Because the amount of material to be used for the preparation of the collection is small, having the material knitted or woven, or having it dyed, if it is raw, is more expensive compared with mass production. However, if the company trusts its own collection and receives positive feedback from its customers, it may consider using the material for production and keep the orders at a high level, thus decreasing the unit price. The purpose of this study is to put forward methods of calculating expenses for preparing a collection and collection costs. It also presents a sample application using present‐day values to give a comparison of collection samples with mass production samples. This makes it possible to come up with the most profitable production techniques. For this purpose, 40 T‐shirt designs were made; of these, ten models with different production features were carefully selected. Production steps were classified and the cost for each step was then calculated. By adding the cost of each step together, unit model cost was found. The collection cost was determined in the same way. It has been observed that the costs increase according to the raw material, auxiliary equipment, accessories, side processes and labour.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 5 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

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