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Article
Publication date: 9 September 2022

Nokyeon Kim and Elizabeth Bye

This study aims to investigate the relationship between people’s socially and environmentally responsible apparel practices (SERAP) and valuing US made clothing, current…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the relationship between people’s socially and environmentally responsible apparel practices (SERAP) and valuing US made clothing, current perceptions of US made clothing and factors affecting apparel purchases.

Design/methodology/approach

An online survey was completed by 502 US consumer aged 18-65. Five factors were identified representing responsible apparel practices and US made clothing. Inter-factor correlations were tested. People’s perceptions toward US made clothing were examined through perceived quality, purchase experience and intentions to pay premium prices.

Findings

There was a positive correlation between SERAP and valuing US made clothing. Perceived quality of US apparel influenced both actual purchase and intentions to pay higher prices. Availability and affordability were major purchase factors.

Practical implications

US apparel companies that produce their products domestically may consider developing specific messaging that resonates with customers, taking advantage of the perception of high quality and being transparent with the cost of producing apparel domestically.

Originality/value

This study suggests domestically made apparel purchases as part of a move toward SERAP. Although previous studies have addressed consumer responsibility and sustainable businesses, the connection has been inconclusive. This study provides current data of renewed and growing interest in US made apparel and expands its value.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 March 2017

Elizabeth Bye and Kira Erickson

This study aims to explore domestic sewn product manufacturing in Minnesota. There is a renewed interest from consumers in products Made in America, thus some manufactures are…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to explore domestic sewn product manufacturing in Minnesota. There is a renewed interest from consumers in products Made in America, thus some manufactures are taking advantage of the opportunities to produce locally.

Design/methodology/approach

Fourteen companies from across the state that ranged in size and product type were interviewed about the motivations, opportunities and challenges they experience with domestic manufacturing. A content analysis was conducted on the qualitative data.

Findings

The themes of personal values and economics emerged under motivations; the local economy, control and uniqueness were revealed as opportunities; and challenges included the themes of manufacturing resources and costs.

Originality/value

This group of Minnesota manufacturers holds strong values that drive them to balance the opportunities and challenges of domestic manufacturing. There is no evidence to determine if sustainability is a concern or a motivating factor.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 February 2008

Elizabeth Bye, Karen LaBat, Ellen McKinney and Dong‐Eun Kim

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

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Abstract

Purpose

To evaluate current apparel industry Misses grading practices in providing good fit and propose grading practices to improve fit.

Design/methodology/approach

Participants representing Misses sizes 6‐20 based on ASTM D 5585 were selected. The fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns was assessed. Garments were fit‐to‐shape on participants. Traditionally graded patterns were compared to fit‐to‐shape patterns using quantitative and qualitative visual analysis.

Findings

Current apparel industry grading practices do not provide good fit for consumers. The greatest variation between the traditionally graded patterns and the fit‐to‐shape patterns occurred between sizes 14 and 16. For size 16 and up, neck and armscye circumferences were too large and bust dart intakes were too small.

Research limitations/implications

This study was limited to a sheath dress in Misses sizes 6‐20. Future research should assess the fit of garments from traditionally graded patterns for other size ranges.

Practical implications

Multiple fit modes are needed in a range of more than five sizes. The fit model should be at the middle of a sizing group that does not range more than two sizes up or down.

Originality/value

There are few studies on apparel grading that test fit of actual garments on the body. The analysis documents the real growth of the body across the size range and suggests that changes in body measurements and shape determine the fit of a garment. These findings impact future research in apparel and the practices of apparel manufacturers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 2013

Marilyn DeLong, Gozde Goncu-Berk, Elizabeth Bye and Juanjuan Wu

This research takes a bottoms-up approach to sustainable practices of designers within one industry in a specific locale. In researching sustainability in the apparel industry…

Abstract

This research takes a bottoms-up approach to sustainable practices of designers within one industry in a specific locale. In researching sustainability in the apparel industry, one must consider the fashion system in which apparel designers operate. This research examines apparel designers in Minnesota and their perspectives about best practices that will encourage sustainability. Designers from a variety of small to large size businesses are interviewed and the results are analyzed to identify present and future contributions with regards to sustainability in apparel design. Processes that take into account the local context of sustainability enable a shared understanding with potential for mutually acceptable approaches to address the issues.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 17 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 June 2010

Elizabeth Bye and Ellen McKinney

The purpose of this paper is to develop a “good fit” for garments for customer satisfaction, comfort, and functionality as well as a manufacturer's success and reputation.

1148

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a “good fit” for garments for customer satisfaction, comfort, and functionality as well as a manufacturer's success and reputation.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper reviews and evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production. As more manufacturing, product development, and designing responsibilities continue to take place globally, alternatives to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.

Findings

Fit analysis using live and three‐dimensional scan models as an alternative to the traditional fit analysis are under consideration.

Originality/value

This paper evaluates garments on a live fit model and makes recommendations for the acceptance or modification of the garment for production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2020

Katherine Celia Greder, Jie Pei and Jooyoung Shin

The purpose of this study was to create a corset—understructure as well as fabric covering—using only computational, 3D approaches to fashion design. The process incorporated 3D…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to create a corset—understructure as well as fabric covering—using only computational, 3D approaches to fashion design. The process incorporated 3D body scan data, parametric methods for the 3D-printed design, and algorithmic methods for the automated, custom-fit fabric pattern.

Design/methodology/approach

The methods or protocol-based framework that nucleated this design project (see Figure 1) enabled more concentrated research into the iterative step-by-step procedure and the computational techniques used herein.

Findings

The 3D computational methods in this study demonstrated a new way of rendering the body-to-pattern relationship through the use of multiple software platforms. Using body scan data and computer coding, the computational construction methods in this study showed a pliant and sustainable method of clothing design where designers were able to manipulate the X, Y, and Z coordinates of the points on the scan surface.

Research limitations/implications

A study of algorithmic methods is inherently a study of limitation. The iterative process of design was defined and refined through the particularity of an algorithm, which required thoughtful manipulation to inform the outcome of this research.

Practical implications

This study sought to illustrate the use and limitations of algorithm-driven computer programming to advance creative design practices.

Social implications

As body scan data and biometric information become increasingly common components of computational fashion design practices, the need for more research on the use of these techniques is pressing. Moreover, computational techniques serve as a catalyst for discussions about the use of biometric information in design and data modeling.

Originality/value

The process of designing in 3D allowed for the dynamic capability to manipulate proportion and form using parametric design techniques.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Content available
Article
Publication date: 15 June 2010

G.K. Stylios

373

Abstract

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Book part
Publication date: 19 September 2012

Maggie Neale and Beta Mannix

Wow! It was about this time of year – but about sixteen years ago – that we held our first Research on Managing Groups and Teams conference. The first one was held at Stanford but…

Abstract

Wow! It was about this time of year – but about sixteen years ago – that we held our first Research on Managing Groups and Teams conference. The first one was held at Stanford but we moved the location between the East and West coasts for 14 years. As homage to where we met and as the touchstone to where so many of the participants in our conferences and the authors in our volumes were trained, taught, or visited, we returned to the Kellogg School of Management, our intellectual spawning ground. With generous and facilitating support from the Kellogg dean Sally Blount (who, not coincidentally, was the thematic editor of the RMGT Volume 5: Time in Groups), about 60 of us convened to present our ideas, engage in good-natured roasting of our colleagues, and remember how we and the field had changed – and the part that we all have played in that transformation. When Beta and I said our last good-byes at the conference, we left Evanston, not with sadness at the ending of the conferences, but with a sense of accomplishment and collegiality. We have watched young assistant professors transform into leaders in the field. We had seen our own research fortunes, responsibilities, and accomplishments ebb and flow over the 16 years. And now – we move on to new adventures, new horizons, and, with luck, a few more successes.

Details

Looking Back, Moving Forward: A Review of Group and Team-Based Research
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78190-030-7

Article
Publication date: 27 July 2021

Elizabeth Anne Weigle and Laura McAndrews

The purpose of this paper is to investigate Generation Z's physical expectations of being pregnant and their outlook for maternity wear shopping.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate Generation Z's physical expectations of being pregnant and their outlook for maternity wear shopping.

Design/methodology/approach

Females in this cohort (n = 207) participated in an online survey that included questions about perceptions of pregnancy, physical self-concept and forecasted shopping behaviors.

Findings

Results indicated that this group is concerned with physical changes of pregnancy and expect to treat each area of the body in a different way. Women's expected physical concerns of pregnancy predict how much they anticipate accentuating their pregnant body. Gen Z anticipates wearing loose maternity garments and they envision a thoughtful, in-store shopping experience for styles that are equally fashionable and comfortable, such as dresses.

Research limitations/implications

This study should be extended to future generational cohorts like Generation Alpha, along with Gen Z outside of the United States and women in the United States who are non-white. Further studies should take a longitudinal approach to gauge changes in this cohort's expectations as they progress through pregnancy.

Practical implications

This paper provides maternity wear retail brands and designers a foundation for product development and marketing geared toward this large cohort.

Originality/value

The study is the first to inquire about Gen Z's outlook on pregnancy, specifically their envisioned changes to each body area and the role of maternity garments to fulfill needs and concerns.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 26 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 July 1928

THE Fifty‐First Conference of the Library Association takes place in the most modern type of British town. Blackpool is a typical growth of the past fifty years or so, rising from…

Abstract

THE Fifty‐First Conference of the Library Association takes place in the most modern type of British town. Blackpool is a typical growth of the past fifty years or so, rising from the greater value placed upon the recreations of the people in recent decades. It has the name of the pleasure city of the north, a huge caravansary into which the large industrial cities empty themselves at the holiday seasons. But Blackpool is more than that; it is a town with a vibrating local life of its own; it has its intellectual side even if the casual visitor does not always see it as readily as he does the attractions of the front. A week can be spent profitably there even by the mere intellectualist.

Details

New Library World, vol. 31 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0307-4803

1 – 10 of 121